Kyoto, Hakone and Kinosaki Ryokan Trail

Three nights in three kinds of ryokan: a centuries-old inn in Kyoto, a room with its own open-air bath in the Hakone caldera, and a yukata-and-geta hot-spring town on the Sea of Japan. With the etiquette that actually matters — the Gion photography ban, and how tattoos and mixed bathing really work.

• Stop: Kyoto
• Stop: Hakone
• Stop: Kinosaki Onsen