Amalfi Coast and Capri

Positano's stepped lanes, Ravello 350 m above the sea with no beach and no day-trippers after five, and Capri once the last ferry has gone. Written for couples who would rather take the boat than the coast road, and told honestly about the steps, the August gridlock and what the Blue Grotto is actually like.

• Stop: Positano
• Stop: Ravello
• Stop: Capri